This document was updated in January 2005.
About BCC
Where and when does Belconnen Chess Club play?
At the Belconnen Community Centre, corner of Swanson and Chandler Streets, Belconnen, at 7:30pm on Friday nights.
Every Friday?
The club starts around the end of January and runs through to mid-December, with a break on Good Friday. Calendars of this and other clubs can be found on his site.
Is the club suitable for beginners or are most players grandmasters?
There are only two grandmasters in Australia and neither play at Belconnen. There is an enormous range of standards at the club, with typically more than fifty players per event, and due to the pairing system players will find opposition at their level. A number of members played their first ever rated game at Belconnen in the past couple of years.
Does the club cater for any particular age range or other demographic?
No, the membership is made up of whoever chooses to join and no group is targeted. Currently many members are young but this has not always been the case, though it has always tended to have a younger membership than, e.g. Canberra CC. The ages range from primary school to retired and there are far more women and girls than any other ACT club.
What does it cost?
It depends how much you play. There is a one-off membership fee paid at the start of the year and then a fee per tournament paid at the start of each event. Additionally players must join ACTCA ($15 p.a., or $10 concession, assuming no rise from last year) if they are not already members.
BCC's costs are mainly in rent and equipment and its fees are set to cover these. Since these costs are roughly proportional to the length of events so are the fees.
The following fee structure for 2005 was recently announced by the Treasurer.
ACTCA is the umbrella body representing all ACT chess players. It does not run weekly tournaments or have its own premises but controls major events such as the ACT Championship which are not the poroperty of any one club. It also performs functions such as obtaining grants from the ACT government which are more effectively achieved on behalf of all players rather than sections.
Does this carry up the chain to an Australian Chess Federation, an International Chess Federation and an Intergalactic Chess Union?
The ACF (Australian Chess Federation) and FIDE (International Chess Federation) both exist at this stage.
Getting back to BCC, do I need to bring anything?
Membership and tournament fees cover use of sets, clocks and scoresheets. But it is advisable to bring your own pen or pencil for recording (see below); the club has a supply but quality is not guaranteed.
Why doesn't BCC give prizes? Doesn't a lot of effort go into winning a tournament?
It would be necessary to raise fees to create prizes. One of the attractions of chess is that it is cheap; an entire year's BCC fees plus a couple of weekenders costs less than just the uniform and equipment for most sports. So BCC prefers to keep fees down to attract as many players as possible. In addition experience elsewhere is that the existence of even small cash prizes can lead to bad behaviour and disputes over trivial matters.
Can I just go along and spectate before I decide if I want to join?
Yes.
-- Top --
About BCC --
Tournaments --
Rules and etiquette --
The digital clock --
Miscellaneous --
Is it compulsory to play in tournaments at BCC, or can I just play casual games?
If you wish. For the same reason that, for instance, people don't join a soccer club to practice dribbling balls around cones, most people prefer to play competitive tournaments. But it isn't compulsory.
Are games played with clocks?
Yes. All tournament games, at BCC or anywhere else, are played with clocks. Casual friendly games can be played under whatever conditions you choose.
How long do games go for?
One tournament game is played per night, except for Rapid or Lightning events. If a game went for 100 moves and both sides used all their time then (see below for more about time limits) the game would go for nearly 4 hours and 30 minutes. In practice, though, games more normally last less than 40 moves and at least one player uses only part of their time so most games are over in under three hours.
If there is one tournament game per night, what do I do if it finishes quickly?
Often players will conduct a post mortem in which they examine the game together to see what they missed. This is especially useful if you lose against a better player, who can explain where they believe you went wrong. After this you can play casual games with other players, or discuss aspects of chess news or politics. Later in the night when the top boards finish you might find it instructive to listen in on their post mortems.
What are the time limits? Are they the same everywhere?
Many time limits are in use but for BCC tournaments (other than Rapid) each player receives 100 minutes at the start and an additional 20 seconds per move. So for instance after 10 moves you have 103 minutes and 20 seconds less whatever you have used on those moves. Only your own thinking time counts against you, your clock stops and your opponent's runs when it's their move. This is explained in more detail below.
Do I lose if I run out of time? Isn't that a bit severe?
Yes, you do lose, there are no warnings. However you don't need to let this happen. First, you should organise your time to keep a bit in hand. Second, you always have at least 20 seconds since you get that much on every move.
Some older books refer to "time controls" and imply that players had to make a given number of moves in a certain period. Does that still happen?
Not at BCC and it's getting less and less common. Before digital clocks the game had to be stopped to add blocks of time after a certain number of moves, now it can just be automatically added per move so there's no need for milestones.
What about speed chess, how fast is that?
This covers a range of formats, from lightning (five minutes each for all moves) to slightly less hectic speeds (typically fifteen to thirty minutes each, sometimes with a ten-second per move increment). See below for a more precise definition of the border.
Do I have to record the moves? Why?
Yes, in a normal game. Partly just because it's the rules; the arbiter can't watch every game so needs to have access to a written record. Partly it's in your own interests; you can use your record as evidence of claims of, e.g., draws by repetition or 50 moves. Also you can play through the game at home to find your mistakes (if you made any).
Recording moves is not required in lightning or rapid chess. As a general rule in a game where you have to make 60 moves in 60 minutes, or slower, you have to write your moves, anything faster is deemed rapid.
If there is one game per week how many weeks do tournaments go for?
It used to be that every tournament everywhere went seven rounds. BCC has a range of formats between four and nine. Also Belconnen hosts the ACT Open Championship about every second or third year and this runs eleven weeks.
How are your opponents allocated? Seven rounds with over fifty members doesn't fit.
BCC has one round robin, where there are only as many opponents as there are rounds. But most tournaments are played under the "Swiss system" in which you play someone on your own score, or as near as possible. This means that your opponents are performing about as well as you so most games should be reasonably even, while to win the tournament you have to beat the players who are scoring well.
Isn't there about a 50:50 chance of there being an odd number of players and someone left over?
Yes. In this case the bottom player is given a bye, for which they get a point (as it isn't their fault they didn't play) - but only one bye per player per tournament. In a seven round tournament there will probably be three or four byes and when you start you will almost certainly get one of them at some point in the tournament; as you get better and new players come in it will happen less often.
If I've just missed the start of a tournament can I join in or must I wait for the next one?
You can start in the second or later rounds, as many people do, though if it's nearly the end you might as well wait for the next one.
What if I can't play for seven (or however many) consecutive weeks?
You can take a half-point bye for any round in a tournament except the last, to a maximum of two; that is you can take a half-point in lieu of playing. If you join the tournament late you will get retrospective half-point byes (maximum two). For the last round or any round after you have used your two half-point byes you can still skip the round, you just won't get any points.
So there is no problem about missing a round or rounds. You simply need to ensure that the arbiter knows you won't be coming so that you can be left out of the draw, otherwise somebody will be sitting round half the night waiting for you and will not be pleased.
Why do people get a half-point for not playing? Doesn't this encourage people not to play? It might be better to take a safe half-point to sit on a good score.
People often can't get to every round so it allows people to skip the occasional round without ruining the tournament for them. Because you don't know what's going to happen it's difficult to take half-point byes tactically except in the last round, which is when it's not allowed. As there are no prizes at BCC it's not worth trying to manipulate half-point byes.
Are the half-point bye rules the same everywhere?
No, it's a local rule and implementation varies widely.
Is the Swiss system hard to understand? Is it documented somewhere?
One place to find the rules is at the Swiss Perfect site. Most tournaments these days run Swiss Perfect on a laptop computer; it is usually more accurate than a human doing the draw though it seems to have some bugs so the arbiter should examine the pairings for obvious errors. Where a computer is not available the rules can be applied by hand though complicated scenarios can be tricky.
What is the best way to use my time? Should I keep as much as possible in reserve for when the game gets complicated, or use it all to find the best moves because once I have a big advantage I can make routine moves quickly?
There is no answer and you will see both approaches used. There is no point moving too quickly and losing with a lot of time remaining on your clock as you can't keep it for the next game. However either approach taken to extremes will be inefficient.
-- Top --
About BCC --
Tournaments --
Rules and etiquette --
The digital clock --
Miscellaneous --
What should I do if I have a problem during a game, for instance my opponent makes an illegal move?
Stop the clocks and call the arbiter. You are always entitled to stop the clock for a legitimate complaint, so that you don't lose time. (If you have some problem of your own making, for instance you want to enquire what the time limit is, then you can still ask the arbiter but can't stop the clocks for it.) The arbiter is there to fix problems and players should not engage in shouting matches which achieve nothing and disturb the rest of the room.
I've noticed that players don't always call the arbiter for every incident but just fix the problem between themselves. Why doesn't the above advice apply?
Common sense dictates that reasonable people with some experience can often sort out trivial matters where there is no real dispute or attempt to gain unfair advantage. However the above advice applies in general.
Is it correct that if I touch a piece I have to move it?
Players often don't bother with this rule in social games so it can come as a shock to beginners to find it really does exist in tournament play. The rule does not apply if you accidentally brush a piece while picking up another, and if the pieces are off-centre you can adjust them if you say "I adjust" or "J'adoube" first.
Otherwise: if you touch a piece you must move it, if you legally can; if you touch an opponent's piece you must capture it, if you legally can; if you release a piece that you have moved, you cannot take the move back.
A couple of consequences: if you move a piece without releasing it, you can still take the move back but have to move the same piece if legal, having touched it; and if you make an illegal move you then have to replace it with a move by the same piece if legally possible.
Is "sledging" or annoying your opponent a legitimate tactic?
No. The rules specifically provide that you may not distract your opponent. Players should not speak to each other unless there is a good reason. Sometimes players who have been coached in other sports such as cricket or football, where sledging and cheating are if not actively encouraged then at least accepted, consider it legitimate to attempt to harass or distract the opponent. Such behaviour should be reported to the arbiter.
But if my opponent is obviously lost and won't resign, isn't it helpful to inform him that he should resign and is a hopeless idiot? He might not know what a moron he is and would appreciate being told.
Absolutely not. It might be reasonable to advise members of opposing cricket teams that your grandmother can play better than them but in chess the likely consequence is that you will score zero from a winning position if the arbiter hears you. Although it is polite to resign a dead lost position there is no rule that a player has to, so if your opponent won't resign you have to checkmate him. If you want to point out that a player is wasting everyone's time you must communicate the hopelessness of their position in a non-verbal way, such as promoting five pawns to Knights.
So when should I resign? How clearly lost must a position be?
You have to judge each case, there is no hard and fast rule. Sometimes even an ending two pawns down is a theoretical draw, or is very difficult to win. Or there might be chances of perpetual check or stalemate tricks, or winning back material.
A "lost" position is in part relative to how advanced the players are. As a general principle if you are the equivalent of a Bishop or Knight down in an otherwise uneventful position, and your opponent has plenty of time on the clock and is not a beginner, you can be reasonably certain that your position is unretrievable. But you have to make the judgement. Even if you know your position is lost, if you aren't sure how you would win it yourself then it's worth playing on to see how to do it.
On the one hand the rules say that I may not speak to my opponent, but on the other hand say that I can offer a draw. Isn't this inconsistent?
Sort of. This is why you should only offer a draw while your own time is running (make your move, offer the draw, then press your clock), and should not unreasonably offer draws.
What is an "unreasonable" draw offer?
An offer that you can be sure that your opponent will not accept. One instance is where you have a clearly lost position. Another is where your opponent has recently rejected a draw offer and nothing much has changed; in such circumstances you have indicated that you are prepared to take a draw and it is now considered to be your opponent's turn to offer the draw if they change their mind. The former is merely bad manners, but in the latter case repeated frivolous draw offers may incur a penalty.
When do I have to record the moves of the game?
In a normal (not rapid) game you have to record the moves as they are played. You may reply to an opponent's move before you write it but that's as far behind as you can get. [Some books recommend that you write your move before you play it and in the past many players did so, but it has recently been outlawed by FIDE as it may be construed as making reminder notes - and you certainly may not write in advance your opponent's expected move and the move you intend to play in reply.]
But you are allowed to stop writing moves when you have less than five minutes left on your clock (that's your clock, what time your opponent has is irrelevant). The exception to this exception, which doesn't apply at Belconnen, is that if the increment per move is 30 seconds or greater then you always have to record whatever time you have.
What if neither side is recording or the scoresheets are unclear? How does anybody prove that a position has occurred three times, or make any other claim?
It's a bit like a dismissal in cricket, claims of anything can only be upheld when there is no reasonable doubt. If neither side is recording it may be possible to reconstruct the missing moves on another board, or the arbiter or an assistant may have been watching, but if not the game continues. Similarly if a scoresheet is full of scribbles and corrections giving rise to doubt as to its accuracy then the arbiter may reject it as evidence.
What happens if a player forgets to press the clock?
Often the opponent will remind someone, especially a beginner, who has not pressed the clock. However this is not required. You should get into a routine to ensure that you always press the clock after moving.
Who can point out out that my opponent or I have lost on time?
The arbiter will call a loss on time (in a normal game, not a speed game), or a player may claim a win (recalling that there are many games and the arbiter may not be present). Spectators should not say anything to the players (this is discussed further below).
What if I see something untoward in another game, for instance a player has accidentally made an illegal move and nobody has noticed, or a player has run out of time?
Advise the arbiter. On no account should players not involved in a game interfere with it.
Does that also mean I can't point out a good move for a player if I see it?
Absolutely. Any comment within the hearing of the players or assistance is strictly forbidden. Even if it relates to a chance that has now slipped by it is not permitted, as the ideas may still be relevant. Commenting on games in progress is probably the best way to get thrown out of a tournament (or out of a window).
In any case spectators should just not be talking to players about anything, whether relating to the game or not. At the very least it will disturb the opponent.
Haven't there been cases where both players thought that the other was resigning, or similar misunderstanding? What happens there?
Yes there have. If there is no agreement or evidence that a player has resigned the game just goes on. Technically players should write the result on the scoresheets and sign them so there are no disputes. At club level this is normally dispensed with and the common sense and good faith of the players is assumed, but occasionally there can be misunderstandings.
Where can I read the official rules?
Look here (external lnk).
-- Top --
About BCC --
Tournaments --
Rules and etiquette --
The digital clock --
Miscellaneous --
You may wish to skip this section until you actually start playing or it will just cause confusion. The questions relate to the maroon DGT clock commonly used in Canberra clubs and weekenders but there are other brands to which the answers may not apply, in particular the black digital clock.
How do I switch the clock on or off?
There is a white button on the bottom. This switches the clock on (or off) but does not start it running.
How do I start it running, and when?
Start the clock by pressing the STOP/START key. If you press this when the clock is already running it will pause the clocks at the time they then show, not restart the cycle from the top.
When the arbiter indicates that play is to commence the Black player should start the clocks. The clock should be set with White's time to run first, indicated by the lever being up at that side. After making the first move White presses the lever to start Black's time, etc, and so on back and forth.
How can I restart the clock at the beginning of the cycle, for instance if it has not been re-set from the previous round?
Switch it off and back on with the white button at the bottom. It will restart with the same setting but at the beginning of the time cycle.
How do I know which setting the clock is on?
When it is switched on the setting number is displayed, either 01 or the last used; hit OK to accept (or see below if it needs changing). If the clock is already on and you don't want to switch it off, press down the OK button to show the setting number.
What if the clock isn't on the setting I need?
Switch it off and on (unless you just have) to display the existing setting. Press the +1 key until you reach the desired setting number, and then press the OK key.
How do I go backwards if I overshoot?
You can't. Either turn the clock off and start again or keep pressing +1 to cycle around again.
How do I know which number corresponds to which setting?
There should be a list on the base of the clock. The most common are 15, 12, 22 and 23. Normal BCC tournaments use 23; see more explanations below.
Some of the settings say "manual set", how is this done?
When you choose one of these settings the various components (hours, minutes, seconds, increments) are presented sequentially. Adjust with the +1 then hit OK to proceed. Not too hard but needs a little practice. Reading the manual or asking someone for advice is advised.
When does the clock display hours and minutes and when does it show minutes and seconds?
When the remaining time is less than 20 minutes the clock show minutes and seconds.
How do you tell the difference between, e.g., 1 hour 23 minutes and 1 minute 23 seconds? Didn't someone once lose a game because they misread a clock in this manner?
Yes, this excuse has allegedly been used. The way to tell the difference is that the former is rendered as 1:23 (with a colon) and the latter as 1.23 (with a dot). Also if the clock is running you can see the seconds ticking over.
How can I tell if the clock is running or paused when it is only showing minutes?
The colon (see above) is flashing on the clock that is running. If neither is flashing the clock is paused. The mere fact that the lever is raised does not show that the clock is running since one lever is always raised, there is no flat orientation.
How is the time limit applied?
This varies as discussed in the Tournaments section. Under the new BCC limit it's simple; if you run out of time you lose.
In some other places the time limit has one or two allocations by which you must reach a certain move number, followed by an increment per move. If you fail to reach the required move number(s), or run down to zero in the incremental phase, you lose (assuming the game is otherwise unfinished).
Make sure you know the time limit before the game starts since it will affect your strategy. Yes that's obvious, but surprisingly some people forget.
If an incremental time control cuts in when the first allotment is used, as happens at some weekenders, doesn't this mean that it might happen at move 20, 50, or 80 or even more, not any fixed move?
Yes. This is probably why the setting is described by the slightly odd term "followed by" rather than "then".
*** Table of Contents ***
Tournaments
Rules and etiquette
The digital clock
Miscellaneous
*** About BCC ***
What is the ACT Chess Association?
Event
Standard
Concession
Annual membership exc ACTCA
$ 20
$ 10
Belconnen Open / Minor (7 weeks)
25
22
Belconnen Premier / Divisional events (9 weeks)
35
30
Club Championship (9 weeks)
32
29
BCC Rapid Championship (3 weeks)
11
10
ACT Championship (11 weeks)
tba
tba
Other events
tba
tba
*** Tournaments ***
*** Rules and etiquette ***
*** The digital clock ***