Xrack Abseiling Device

Orientation on the harness

The rack is mounted on the harness with the bars opening upwards. This orientates the rack for its other functions and works well. Other orientations are possible, and can be experimented with.

The distance between the bars is such that the descent is reasonably free on most ropes, particularly at the top of an abseil where there is a lot of rope hanging below.

Caution

Always pay attention to ensure that loose clothing or hair does not get caught in the abseiling device. Carry basic self rescue equipment and be proficient in its use.

  Note :- The rack shown is intended for right handed use. Left hand models are available on request.

Adding friction on the fly

When more control is required (such as at a difficult start), or when some of the descent has been completed and the cliff is steeper, or free fall, and there is more weight on the rope, (and less on the tail rope). The rope can be configured as shown in the pictures on the left. With practice this can be done whilst descending.

The rack now becomes very controllable on most ropes, and in some cases will cruise with very little bottom tension.

(See Alexander at Michalago)

(Another way of adding friction is shown further down the text in Too Slow below)

Locking off.

If you want to stop and "lock off", the rack can be held stationary by hand clamping the rope in the last illustration, with the left hand over the rack and rope, thus freeing the right hand. Feed a loop under the 5 th bar (lifting it up in the process) and put the loop over and through the cross over at the top,  (this can be done in two ways). Now pull the tail down tight.

This "lock off" works well on single 9 mm or 11 mm rope. Thinner ropes may need another loop, but then there is enough space left within the cross over to accommodate the rope. (Double rope will lock off in the previous pass as in Adding Friction on the Fly).

This "lock off" works well in a loose rope situation, when standing on a small ledge doing other things, the rope is captive within the cross over, and the "lock off" will not fall out, as is possible on some other devices.

Caution

The "lock off" described above will slide some distance under dynamic load ( such as a fall from the ledge mentioned above) before stopping. In so doing it absorbs dangerous shock loads on the harness and abseiler.

MAKE SURE THAT THERE IS A STOPPER KNOT AT THE END OF THE ROPE.

Thin ropes

This illustration shows the use of the 5 th bar with a loop over the top, which allows descents to be controlled on ropes down to 6 mm for those who trust in thin ropes.

Double 6 mm rope will fit into the configuration shown in Adding Friction on the Fly (The last Picture).

Too Slow?

With very light people or very stiff ropes the rack may be too slow in its normal configuration as in Orientation on the Harness.

When the bottom locking bar is taken out it becomes too fast.

It is possible to go half way by putting the top rope through the cross over as shown.

This method can also be used to add friction to other configurations.

Double rope

The rack should slide well on most supple double ropes from 11mm to 9 mm, but if it is too slow it is normal practice to take a bar out on one, or both ropes ( not the same bar).

If this is now too fast middle ground can be achieved by putting one of the top ropes through the cross over as shown in illustration above (Too Slow)

Getting off in Difficult Situations

Obviously the rack does not have to be removed from the harness, which means that you will still have it after the canyon.

Devices such as figure 8's which have to be removed from the harness (to get off the rope), are easily lost in cold and difficult situations.

To get off the rope in difficult situations (such as in the bottom of a waterfall).

Support your weight on the rope, by gripping the top rope with your left hand, whilst holding the rack with your bottom 2 fingers around the cross over.

If you do it right you can flip the locking bar out of the way and get the rope out smoothly.

Repeat for the top bar, and you are off.

This procedure needs practice, but works reliably when the skill is gained.

Conclusion

Abseiling and Rock Climbing are potentially dangerous activities. This device is not designed to arrest falls.

The user of this device should receive training in the use of the device, and be aware of all safety procedures whilst abseiling.

Nb. The design of this abseiling device is subject to copyright.

Please do not copy this device as any, and all infringements of my copyright will result in prosecution to the maximum extent of the law.